Nazalost, staticko paljenje se podesava prema oznakama na zamajcu. Za dinamicko podesavanje, potreban bi bio instrument za merenje ugla otvaranja, i uz uslove podesenih platina na propisan zazor, moze se podesiti paljenje.


Kojih platina..pa ako ih nepoznati motor ima...bilo bi dobro da saznamo koji je motor u pitanju

Mozda preko statickog ugla i hoda klipa, definisemo milimetre pre GMT

Poz

Napiši koji auto imaš. Zvuči mi takoreći neverovatno da nema nikakvih oznaka. Potraži na remenici kajiša ili još "tu negde".

nema ,,ali pogledacu jos jednom jebiga,,motor je od renoa 5. 1108cc,,koje podatke da nadjem,,imam ceo prirucnik motara,,hvala

Daj oznaku motora........ugao platina bi trebalo da bude 53-57 stepeni,ugao predpaljenja 8 stepeni.....to pričam napamet jer je najčešće što se sreće ma R5....tačna oznaka i biće sve jasnije,.......pozzz!

Naasao sam podatke,,motor je tip-688 12 CTE 14,,hod klipa 72,,pretpaljenje 6 stepeni plus minus 1,,ugao platina 57-3 stepeni ,,treba mi tacan polozaj klipa pre GMT u milimetrima da bih podesio predpaljenje,,hvala svima jos jednom.

72x6/180=2,4mm, +-0,4mm je taj jedan stepen tolerancije..

Kada meris, okreces klip samo u jednu stranu (zbog zazora), definises GMT, i oko 2,5 mm pre GMT u sledecem okretaju postavi paljenje. Proverava se par puta.
Ako imas isustva, a dosadno ti okretanje radilice za cele krugove, mozes da vratis klip 1/3 kruga pa ponovo merenje i provera pri uzlaznoj putanji

Rad motora mozes da podesavas okretanjem razvodnika, na najbolji rezim rada, ako ne znas tacne podatke, koliki je recimo max ugao predpaljenja, i na kojim obrtajima se postize.

Za takve radnje, skoro na slepo, ne bi bilo lose da uzmes neki "autometar", koji ima merenje ugla predpaljenja...napona..

Poz

Ja sam to nekad na starijim modelima motora radio čisto empirijski, na "sluh" i na osnovu opažanja "ponašanja" motora.. Paljenje se prvo podesi da motor uopće može upaliti, pa se onda razvodnik polako zakreće do točke kad u leru radi što mirnije na malim okretajima. Zatim mu se naglo dodaje gas, pa se vidi dali dobro i brzo prihvača gas. Radi se o milimetrima kod zakretanja, i tu treba odabrati neki kompromis.

Večina razvodnika paljenja na starijim tipovima motora povezana je mehaničkom polugom sa membranom, koja je crijevom spojena na usisnu granu. Kad se doda gas, usis uvlači membranu "u sebe", a membrana preko polugice zakreće platine, i na taj način povečava kut paljenja, tj. pretpaljenje.

jos jednom,,hvala svima na pomoci,,pozdrav..

Kad vec nemas alat uradi sledece. Zazor platinskih dugmadi stavi na 0.4- 05 mm (3 listica zileta ako nemas cime da izmeris) potom popusti malo razvodnik, upali ga, pusti da se zagreje pa ga pomeraj polako suprotno od smera okretanja razvodne ruke. Motor ce poceti ubrzano da radi pa ce posle neke granice poceti da se trese i usporava. To ti je prerano paljenje. Zatim vrti u smeru okretanja, ponovo ce da ubrza rad i deo kruga ce raditi tako pa ce u jednom trenutku poceti da pada broj obrtaja. Na tom mestu ga ostavi. Ako bi nastavio da ga okreces motor bi usporio sa karakteristicnim mumlanjem i tupim radom. To je kasno paljnje.Dok je zagrejan par puta probaj da ga ugasis pa upalis i ako primetis zastajkivanje prilikom verglanja paljenje je ostalo prerano. Pomeri vrlo malo u smeru okretanja razvodne ruke. Objasnio sam ti odokativnu metodu i po mom iskustvu funkcionise bolje nego ona sa instrumentima u rukama neukog majstora i na automobilu kome jos mnogo toga fali.


_{[Ovu poruku je menjao pantic68 dana 31.07.2008. u 22:42 GMT+1]}

ne moze bajka, nista na sluh da se steluje,,ko zeli sto posto pravilan rad agregata, mora tako,,pratim potrosnju evo sa d mi je smanjio za 1,5 litru u lokalu,,stara je to maasina pa pokusavam da izvucem maksimum,,u svakom slucaju hvala.

Mozda i nije sluh u pitanju vec iskustvo. U svakom slucaju moze.

Koji su uglovi pretpaljenja kod VW 1.9 SDI/TDI novih motora? Recimo sa stroboskopom hocu to da provjerim pa me interesuje!
Ima li negdje ta tablica na netu da se skine ili...

To se proba sa VAG-COM interfejsom, makar i piratskim, i brojka se pojavi na ekranu..Ne znam za sta bi zakacio okidni signal stroboskopa..

Poz.

Da li se pojavi ona koja treba da bude ili ona koja je trenutno, jer na dva auta s istim motorom npr. razlicit br obrtaja pise u VAGcom (originalnom), a motor je isti! Volio bih ako ima negdje ugao pretpaljenja da probam jer imam stroboskop pa da provjerim! Ako imas te podatke molio bih te da postavis ili na pm posaljes!

Evo pa proucavaj:

Setting the Injection Timing - Injector Pump Mechanical Adjustment - A VW specific scan tool such as VAG-COM is required for this procedure. It cannot be done by any other method. The mechanical adjustment technique used for previous generations of VW diesels, which used a mechanical fuel pump without electronic control, is not suitable for the electronically controlled TDI injector pump.

With the engine warmed up and idling, connect the diagnostic tool, and select the engine control module. At this point, one of two different procedures is necessary, depending upon whether you have the proper factory service manual for your particular vehicle.

If you have the factory service manual, select "Measuring Blocks", group 0, then select "Basic Settings". The glow plug indicator lamp will begin flashing at this time (this is normal). Do NOT forget to go into "Basic Settings" because this procedure is completely invalid if measurements are taken outside of "basic settings". Take note of the 2nd and 9th numbers in the display. Locate the chart in the factory service manual which shows the proper relationship between these two numbers. Go across the chart with the 9th number then up the chart with the 2nd number and make sure it is within the shaded area. It has been found through experience that these engines have better cold starting characteristics if the setting is within the upper half of the shaded area. If it is good ... don't do anything further. If the second number is below the recommended range, you need to make a mechanical "advance" adjustment (see below). If the second number is above the recommended range, you need to make a mechanical "retard" adjustment (see below).

If you don't have the factory service manual, select "Measuring Blocks", and go to group 4. Do NOT use "basic settings" for this method. The displays show the requested injection timing, the actual measured injection timing, and the duty cycle of the advance solenoid. At warm idle in neutral, requested timing should be between 0.4 and 2.0 degrees BTDC. If the actual timing is not more than roughly 3.0 degrees BTDC, and the duty cycle of the advance solenoid is not more than 10%, the timing is good ... don't do anything further. If actual timing is more than 3.0 degrees BTDC, you need to make a mechanical "retard" adjustment. If the duty cycle is more than 10%, you need to make a mechanical "advance" adjustment.

If you have an A3 or B4, you need to rotate the body of the injector pump "forward" to retard the timing and "backward" to advance the timing. Stop the engine. Remove the upper timing belt cover. Rotate the engine by hand (shifting trans into 5th gear and pushing the whole car works) such that the two nuts at the rear and bottom of the injector pump flange can be reached through the access holes in the pump pulley. Loosen these two nuts by 1 turn, loosen the bolt at the top front of this flange 1 turn (accessed from outside, not within the pulley). Loosen the bolt located at the opposite end of the pump below the four injector lines. With a 17mm wrench, loosen by 1/2 turn the injector lines on the end of the pump. Now you can rotate the entire pump housing in the required direction (make VERY SMALL adjustments) then tighten and reassemble everything and recheck the timing.

If you have an A4, you need to remove the upper timing belt cover and adjust the relationship between the inner and outer parts of the injector pump pulley. To advance the timing, the inner part of the pulley (together with the pump shaft) needs to move "forward" with respect to the outer part of the pulley. To retard the timing, the inner part needs to move "backward" with respect to the outer part. The 3 bolts which secure the two parts of the pulley together may or may not be "stretch bolts" that must be replaced every time you do this ... so it's a good idea to get 3 new bolts just to be sure. Make all the adjustments using the original bolts, then replace the old bolts with the new bolts and torque them one at a time.

Poz.

P.S Dobar download na adresi
http://servicemanual.blogspot....-19-tdi-industrial-engine.html

_{[Ovu poruku je menjao vladd dana 29.11.2008. u 23:01 GMT+1]}

Hvala ti puno vladd!

Pozdrav

Imas li ugao za 1.9tdi od 90KS, a ako ne smije ovdje da se napise mozes li mi na PM poslati? ;)

Nemam ja u toj formi podatke, ali pogledaj

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-scope/TDIGraph.html

Poz.