[ kajla @ 21.12.2001. 09:40 ] @
The Terrorist's Cookbook

Written BY: UNKNOWN AUTHOR

HEAVILY EDITED by: Kloey Detect of Five O

Special thanks to WordPerfect Corporation for their spelling
checker.......This file NEEDED IT!


(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)(*)
SPECIAL THANX ALSO GOES OUT TO:

Nitro Glycerine: For providing the files!
Xpax : For being patient while the cop was there!
The Producer : For getting the files to me....
The Director : For getting the files to me....
Mr.Camaro : For his BIG EGO!!!
The Magician : For ALL the Bernoulli carts he is gonna send!!














This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is
the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown
author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be
merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then
spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not
spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell
check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors
which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience
to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little
error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!!





This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi
.....Wherever you both may be.....





.PN


THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK
________________________


1.0 INTRODUCTION

Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is
proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First and
foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities
for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The purpose
of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people in this
and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and social goals.
The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be
carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one all the more
frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this information,
and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques herein SHOULD NOT BE
CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM
ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS MERELY
FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!!

Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has some
idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is
the reason for the existence of this publication.

.PA
1.1 Table of Contents
_________________

2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
2.01 Black Powder
2.02 Pyrodex
2.03 Rocket Engine Powder
2.04 Rifle/Shotgun Powder
2.05 Flash Powder
2.06 Ammonium Nitrate
2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
2.11 Techniques for Picking Locks
2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 Nitric Acid
2.32 Sulfuric Acid
2.33 Ammonium Nitrate

3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
3.01 Explosive Theory
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
3.11 Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
3.12 Mercury Fulminate
3.13 Nitroglycerine
3.14 Picrates
3.2 LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.21 Black Powder
3.22 Nitrocellulose
3.23 Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
3.24 Perchlorates
3.3 HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.31 R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
3.32 Ammonium Nitrate
3.33 ANFOS
3.34 T.N.T.
3.35 Potassium Chlorate
3.36 Dynamite
3.37 Nitrostarch Explosives
3.38 Picric Acid
3.39 Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
3.40 Nitrogen Trichloride
3.41 Lead Azide
3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
3.51 Thermit
3.52 Molotov Cocktails
3.53 Chemical Fire Bottle
3.54 Bottled Gas Explosives

4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES
4.1 SAFETY
4.2 IGNITION DEVICES
4.21 Fuse Ignition
4.22 Impact Ignition
4.23 Electrical Ignition
4.24 Electro - Mechanical Ignition
4.241 Mercury Switches
4.242 Tripwire Switches
4.243 Radio Control Detonators
4.3 DELAYS
4.31 Fuse Delays
4.32 Timer Delays
4.33 Chemical Delays
4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
4.41 Paper Containers
4.42 Metal Containers
4.43 Glass Containers
4.44 Plastic Containers
4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
4.51 Shaped Charges
4.52 Tube Explosives
4.53 Atomized Particle Explosions
4.54 Lightbulb Bombs
4.55 Book Bombs
4.56 Phone Bombs

5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
5.1 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
5.11 Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
5.12 Blowgun Ammunition
5.13 Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
5.2 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
5.21 Handgun Ammunition
5.22 Shotguns
5.3 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
5.31 .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
5.32 .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition

6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS
6.1 ROCKETS
6.11 Basic Rocket-Bomb
6.12 Long Range Rocket-Bomb
6.13 Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
6.2 CANNONS
6.21 Basic Pipe Cannon
6.22 Rocket-Firing Cannon

7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
7.1 Smoke Bombs
7.2 Colored Flames
7.3 Tear Gas
7.4 Fireworks
7.41 Firecrackers
7.42 Skyrockets
7.43 Roman Candles

8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION

9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS

10. USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY

11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR




2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS

Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and
a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in
order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something
about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example,
is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is:
the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.


2.01 BLACK POWDER


Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before,
the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in
a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along
with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally,
the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other
grades and uses are listed below:

GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
_____ __________ ______________

F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers


The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has
more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger
grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of
black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected
by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer
grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be
ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to
absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic
spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would
apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes
or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine
as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes
to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1
foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can
own black powder firearms in America.



2.02 PYRODEX


Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and
it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will
not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined
to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried.



2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER



One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is
the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are
composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by
a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube
lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the
grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is
usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally
hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the widest
setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag,
the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to
all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder.
Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly
powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come
in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are
perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they
can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.



2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER


Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be
referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is
then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When
dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of
black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly
compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder
burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure.
Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants
is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any
idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the
U.S.


2.05 FLASH POWDER


Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very
finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The
fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns
very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash",
hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold
in magic shops and theatre supply stores.


2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE


Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as
a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of
nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the
"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks"
consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the
ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the
outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in
a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it
tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many
fertilizers.



2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS


The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.
Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the
labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter
lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and
most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears
a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone
asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking
for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department
other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various
labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There
are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as
placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back
exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before
this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a
lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the
cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never
know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one
plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the
actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know
when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if
none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a
rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another
person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an
odd hour.



2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS



If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's
most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule
here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several
devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket-
knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these
tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch
out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding
whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out
from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum
can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the ragged ends of the
can. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a
single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the
strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4
inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape,
or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this:


(1)

_________________________________________________________ v
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
^

Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of
aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped
device that looks like this:


__________________________________________
/|________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
| |
|_|



_____________________________
/|___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |_________
|_______|



_____________________
/|___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |
| |
| |____________________
|___________________|


All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and
pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between
the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made
properly.


2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY

Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets,
and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous
compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some
money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.



Chemical Used In Available at
________ _______ ____________

_____________________________________________________________________________
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
ammonia + CLEAR household supermarkets,
ammonia 7 - Eleven
_____________________________________________________________________________
ammonium instant-cold drug stores,
nitrate paks, fertilizers medical supply stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
nitrous oxide pressurizing party supply stores
drinks and whip cream
_____________________________________________________________________________
magnesium firestarters surplus stores,
camping stores
____________________________________________________________________________
lecithin vitamin? pharmacies, drug
stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket,
drug store
_____________________________________________________________________________
mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets,
hardware stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
sulfuric acid uncharged car automotive stores
batteries
_____________________________________________________________________________
glycerine ? pharmacies, drug
stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
sulfur gardening gardening store,
hardware stores?
_____________________________________________________________________________
charcoal charcoal grills, supermarkets
gardening gardening stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store
_____________________________________________________________________________
cellulose first aid drug stores,
(cotton) medical supply stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
strontium nitrate road flares surplus stores,
auto stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus stores,
(kerosene) camping stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
bottled gas propane stoves surplus stores,
camping stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate water purification purification plants
_____________________________________________________________________________
hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus stores
methenamine (camping) (camping stores?)
_____________________________________________________________________________
nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography stores?
_____________________________________________________________________________
iodine & first aid drug stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores
for cutting torches
_____________________________________________________________________________

notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a
solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol
must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury
fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.


+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The
pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear
ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.


@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They
may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in
mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores.
Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the
thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason,
it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it
outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will
help prevent this.


^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually
stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later
section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.


& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline
form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.
To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's
prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the
means that terrorists result to.

2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS


2.31 NITRIC ACID


There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once
again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!


Materials: Equipment
__________ _________

sodium nitrate adjustable heat source
or
potassium nitrate retort

distilled water ice bath

concentrated stirring rod
sulfuric acid
collecting flask with stopper



1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.

2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.

3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.

4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid
begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric
acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,
or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This
can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may
explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get
away from it.


Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur
and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to
dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter
the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the
liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder
are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to
evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.



2.32 SULFURIC ACID

Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery.
A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car
battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be
pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,
either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can
also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster
than clean motor oil.


2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE

Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order
explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large
flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask
and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have
stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place
until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated.
There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must
be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from
the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY
gently to drive off the remaining water.


3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES

Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE
ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS
TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT
OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.

These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual
could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually
scaled-down industrial procedures.




3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY

An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece
of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are
displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater
than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the
mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order
explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which
may do both.

High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high
order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately
equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high
explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks
apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.
T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.

Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder,
which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they
are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn
much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order
explosives.

Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they
are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined,
they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave.
Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose,
a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently
used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by
the detonation of its primer.


3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES

Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed
here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.


3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS

Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or
heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine
gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that
the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine
in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It
leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts.
Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the
ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on
the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously
washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist,
a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw
several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly
injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that
not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide
crystals could be produced in the following manner:

Materials Equipment
_________ _________

iodine crystals funnel and filter paper

paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)


1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.

2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.

3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel.
The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic
chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle
is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved
side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone
into the funnel.

4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.

5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.

6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about
eight chunks.

7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of
about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be
thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which
gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One
possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight
containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them
where they will be stepped on or crushed.


3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE


Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it
of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of
the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
probably use the following procedure:


MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________

mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod

concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source

distilled water blue litmus paper

funnel and filter paper

1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
using the glass rod.

2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.

3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and carefully
add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or brown fumes
should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.

4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.

5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive
and toxic.

6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the
wet crystals

7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
any explosive or flammable material.


This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.



3.13 NITROGLYCERINE

Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not
the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the
all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is
converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:


MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
________ _________

distilled water eye-dropper

table salt 100 ml beaker

sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)

concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )

concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)

glycerine blue litmus paper


1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.

2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about
a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains undissolved.

3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.

4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated
nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill
into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker
when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath
container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about
20
degrees centigrade or less.

5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the
39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids
together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good
idea to start another ice bath to do this.

6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop
at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed
acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN
LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the
temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a
thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to
make any explosive in small quantities.

7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution
in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.

8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the
acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.

9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.

10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is
far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.
Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored
in a secure cool place.


3.14 PICRATES

Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they
are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with
metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the
water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it,
and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range
molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive,
and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.

3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES

There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in stores
and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise gun store
owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such
an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order
explosives.


3.21 BLACK POWDER


First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make,
but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:


MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________

potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder

or or

sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon

sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)

charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)

distilled water coffee pot or heat source



1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.

2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.

3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.

4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.

5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.

6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container.
Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black
powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static
electricity.



3.22 NITROCELLULOSE

Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:


MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________

cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers

concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid

distilled water

1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this
10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.

2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.

3) Remove the nitrocottmNX and`'r1IJ¥›«
-z"I¥ññ§¥5_
to wash it in.

4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.

5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to
be dried and stored.


3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES

There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can
be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:



oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/
impact sensitive
rather unstable
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow
charcoal 15% burning;
unstable
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
________________________________________________________________________________
sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ?
unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very
hot
or
magnesium 40%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make
sesquisulfide 25% strike-anywhere
matches
________________________________________________________________________________
ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
+ small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
________________________________________________________________________________
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
________________________________________________________________________________
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% unstable!
impact sensitive

________________________________________________________________________________

potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
________________________________________________________________________________


NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.

The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.

As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of

the mixture.


3.24 PERCHLORATES

As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can
be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium
perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated
with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium
hydroxide are ideal.


3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES

High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.



3.31 R.D.X.

R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the
home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium
nitrate.


MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________

hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice

ammonium nitrate

1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully
pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.

2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of
the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it
must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result.
Stir the mixture.

3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice
and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium
nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is
put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below
zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes

4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.

5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5
until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable
and safe.

6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.

7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.

8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.

9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should
be possible to desensitize the R.D.X., and increase its power, since ammonium
nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.

10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a
density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.



3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE

Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap-
hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site,
since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive
to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a
drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.

_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|



The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending
a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.


3.33 ANFOS

ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick
up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate
when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight)
ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium
nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large
shockwave to set it off.


3.34 T.N.T.

T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is
the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well known.
In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is designed
to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product. A
terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one-step method.
The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming)
sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming)
nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it is
filtered.


3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE


Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making
such an explosive is outlined below:


MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________


potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume)

petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon



1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.

2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e.
put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.

3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium
chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary,
add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.

4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to
greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however,
is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.



3.36 DYNAMITE


The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase
the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.


3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES


Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All
that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated
nitric
and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of
concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold
water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are
more readily detonated.


3.38 PICRIC ACID


Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple
to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric
acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab
manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its
tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as
potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.







MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
[ CONFIQ @ 21.12.2001. 11:18 ] @
ajde ne palite decu
[ Mikky @ 21.12.2001. 22:29 ] @
da a inace to je neko dete (u holandiji bese..?) procitalo sa neta i napravilo omanju bombu i posle napravilo povece s*****...
zato bolje brisi ovu temu
[ nemesis @ 22.12.2001. 06:16 ] @
Citat:
Mikky:
da a inace to je neko dete (u holandiji bese..?) procitalo sa neta i napravilo omanju bombu i posle napravilo povece s*****...
zato bolje brisi ovu temu


ma ti priruchnici su shit :) ... ko je bio u vj ... i ko je imao zadovoljstvo prichitati ''Priruchnik za partizansko - gerilsko ratovanje'' :)
napisano 198x :) .... elem ...ima stavka oko upotrebe urnijuma :) ..
:)) ... ko bi reko da sa shopingom u prodavnici farbi/lakova/itd... mozesh da
postanesh terrorrista :)) .. rr !:)
[ B o j a n @ 22.12.2001. 13:48 ] @
Heh, lep tekst, i veoma poucan ... ako neko zeli mogu da mu dam i Anarchy Handbook ...
[ MAD-MAX @ 22.12.2001. 22:29 ] @
Evo ja hocu :)
[ B o j a n @ 23.12.2001. 03:26 ] @
khm, ostavi neki kontakt ... ili sta vec .....
[ Nemanja Jakovljevic @ 29.03.2002. 21:20 ] @
posetite uskoro moj sajt www.nemanjaj.tk uskoro trepa da uradim upload svakakvih cookbookova ali dosad su mi brisali ovi sa geocitiesa
[ Vertygo @ 29.03.2002. 22:58 ] @
Imam ja the_new_compleat_terrorist ...

nesto slicno kao ovo postovano samo koliko sam na preskoke video malo potpuniji textovi i vise crteza pa ako to ikome treba u zivotu neki ostavi mail da mu posaljem...
[ Nemanja Jakovljevic @ 30.03.2002. 17:38 ] @
posalji na [email protected]

p.s. zabranih desni klik iz hira, da neko ne svrlja po sajtu nego sve lepo da se otvara u centralnom prozoru da se vidi i okolina mog sajta, ali ko hoce to da zaobidje jednostavno iskljuchi javascript
[ 01011011 @ 31.03.2002. 09:29 ] @
Ja ovo nemam snage citati...Mene vec zabolla glava...